Moving to Doha
Expats moving to Doha, the peninsula’s capital city of over 2.5 million residents, will find an emerging metropolis filled with people from every corner of the world. The multi-ethnic makeup of the city’s population is reflected in both the social and professional spheres, and more than anything else, expats should be prepared to make allowances for the different ways in which people do things.
One of the first things expats notice in Doha is the towering cranes rising in the background of most neighbourhoods, a clear sign of the city’s race towards expansion and growth. In that vein, the ratio of Qataris to internationals is incredibly skewed, with expats commanding an overwhelming majority. This often means that, while it is relatively easy to make friends at work or in the neighbourhood (the compound), the local community often stays away from the transient foreign population. However, those who stay longer than the three-year average will find that the Qatari nationals are hospitable and companionable, and more open to cultivating friendships.
Expats living in Doha generally reside in housing provided by their employers, either in high-rise apartment buildings or in family-sized villas in walled neighbourhoods. The standard of living among both local and expat professionals is high, but so is the cost of living. New arrivals should be sure to negotiate an adequate salary package to cover all components of life in the emirate.
From tennis to the cinema, the recreation and entertainment options available in most other metropolitan cities are available, though some expats may feel slightly limited by the number of outlets offering specific services.
One of the largest challenges expats living in Doha face is adapting to the extreme heat. Temperatures are high, rising above 104°F (40°C) between the summer months of June and August, and it’s no coincidence that most annual vacations are between 30 to 45 days long and scheduled for this time period. A key to summer survival is to plan getaways whenever possible. Expats should note, however, that air conditioning is available in most offices, restaurants and other facilities, and they’ll quickly realise that it’s often necessary to bring a shawl or coat along, even amid the sweltering weather.
That said, from October to May the climate is moderate and perfect for dining al fresco or playing several rounds of golf. In the winter, people are often surprised by the low temperatures and the lack of central heating. This absence means that space heaters are in high demand.
COST OF LIVING IN DOHA
With one of the highest per capita incomes in the world, expats might expect the cost of living in Doha to be quite high. On the contrary, it’s actually one of the more affordable Gulf region destinations. Prices have remained fairly steady, even amidst the world economic downturn and ensuing recovery.
Cost of accommodation in Doha
Accommodation in Doha is generally financed by an expat’s employer, and the type of housing arranged is based on the number of family members present.
Within expat compounds, rent often includes access to communal areas, such as a gym, pool, and even mini markets and nurseries.
The prices of stand-alone villas are set by the landlord and/or owner. These tend to rise in cost annually, despite laws intended to protect renters. It is best to keep this in mind when arranging a lease.
There are places in Qatar where expats can own property. Among the most popular are in the Pearl development project, a mix of commercial, retail and residential space (that includes apartments and villas) built on reclaimed land; and the Zig Zag Towers in Lagoona Plaza. However, buying property is expensive and complicated, and most expats prefer to rent.
Cost of food in Doha
Qatar relies heavily on imports for nearly everything, from produce to meat and other goods, and it follows that food prices in Doha are high. Buying local will always save a buck or two, and buying the brand names that expats recognise from home will always cost a pretty penny. It’s best to shop around for certain items, as they can vary by several riyals depending on the outlet.
There is a range of grocery stores, from the bargain favourite Carrefour to the more expensive Megamart, which tends to feature international brands and speciality items, such as organically farmed eggs. There are a host of neighbourhood shops and local establishments, such as Food World, Family Food Center, Al Meera, Lulu Hypermarket and Qmart.
Cost of schooling in Doha
Some employee packages include schooling for children, and many have a maximum number of children they will fund. Furthermore, some policies offer school compensation from three years of age, and others only at age five. These details vary, so it’s best to check with the expat’s recruiter or the hiring business’s human resources department from the onset of contract negotiations.
Expats should keep in mind that tuition at international schools is expensive, and can increase depending on the child’s age and if they are to be involved in after-school or extra-curricular activities.
The best schools and nurseries often have long waiting lists, so if trying to decide between two schools, or having a particular institution in mind, it’s best to get on the waiting list as soon as possible.
Cost of healthcare in Doha
Qatar’s Hamad hospital and clinic system offers free healthcare to nationals and to residents. It is important for expats to obtain a health card either from the employer’s Human Resources office or via the hospital system directly to use these services. Emergency services are free, while visits to the government clinics without a health card will incur a fee.
Expats should note that because everyone in the country does have access to these services, lines can be very long and the appointment system is not as punctual as in other countries.
There are a variety of private hospitals in Qatar that offer excellent outpatient and surgical care, and many expats have insurance policies included in their employment package that may cover the costs of these private service offerings. If such a policy is not included in the package, it can often be purchased from one of the private hospitals directly.
Expats can also pay in cash for services used, or obtain a similar policy via Qatar Insurance or similar companies in the city. That said, most complicated procedures and oncology are dealt with at Hamad, so if an expat does choose one of the other hospitals, a serious condition will mean a referral to specialists at Hamad, in which case a health card is essential.
Cost of transport in Doha
Qatar does not yet have a city-wide public transportation structure, though there are plans for monorails and a train connecting Doha to Bahrain, as well as the UAE. There are bus routes powered by Mowasalat, but these are spread throughout the city, and often the route paths and the route timings are inconvenient and unhelpful.
Taxis are often for private hire via a limousine service. The meter taxis, Karwa, are also available. In either case, it is best to book in advance, especially on the weekends and weekday mornings when many people use them for school drop-offs.
Quality used cars have a high resale value in Qatar because of the three-year cycle of many expats; places like compound clubhouses, employee mailing lists, and online forums such as Qatar Living, are often updated regularly. Car insurance varies based on the make and model of the car, as well as the number of accidents or traffic violations the owner has incurred. For new car owners, comprehensive insurance is required until the loan is paid off.
Cost of living in Doha chart
Prices may vary depending on product and service provider. The list below shows average prices for Doha in October 2018.
Accommodation (monthly rent) |
|
Two-bedroom apartment in Al Sadd |
QAR 13,500 |
Two-bedroom apartment in West Bay |
QAR 14,500 |
Two-bedroom apartment in the Pearl |
QAR 18,000 |
Shopping |
|
Eggs (dozen) |
QAR 13 |
Milk (1 litre) |
QAR 8 |
Rice (1 kg) |
QAR 10 |
Loaf of white bread |
QAR 6 |
Chicken breasts (1kg) |
QAR 30 |
Pack of cigarettes (Marlboro) |
QAR 12 |
Eating out |
|
Big Mac meal |
QAR 25 |
Coca-Cola (330ml) |
QAR 8 |
Cappuccino |
QAR 18 |
Bottle of beer |
QAR 38 |
Three-course meal for two at a mid-range restaurant |
QAR 200 |
Utilities |
|
Mobile to mobile call rate (per minute) |
QAR 0.78 |
Internet (Uncapped ADSL or cable – average per month) |
QAR 300 |
Basic utilities (per month for a standard household) |
QAR 250 |
Hourly rate for domestic help |
QAR 33 |
Transportation |
|
Taxi rate (per kilometre) |
QAR 2.50 |
Bus/train fare in the city centre |
QAR 5 |
Petrol/gasoline (per litre) |
QAR 1.91 |
GETTING AROUND IN DOHA
Driving is the most common way for expats and locals to get around in Doha. The public transport system is limited, but it is improving as the 2022 FIFA World Cup approaches. Taxis are used extensively by residents, but most expats who move to the city have private vehicles and often their own driver, too. All of these drivers are fortunately accommodated by the extensive road network in Doha, but heavy, chaotic traffic does continue to be a problem.
The emirate’s capital also has a bus service, although many expats claim that buses are rarely seen and say they’re unlikely to take one. Construction on the Qatar metro system started in 2013, and it’s scheduled to be at least partially completed in time for the World Cup.
Public transport in Doha
The main complaint expats have about the city is its lack of public transport. Most people who live here drive their own cars or use taxis. However, efforts are being made to improve the system of public transport in Doha, especially with the huge influx of people expected in 2022.
Most Qataris who use public transport are likely to either take buses or Karwa taxis, while expats tend to prefer the latter.
Buses in Doha
Public buses in Doha were introduced to the city in 2005 by a company called Mowasalat. They can be used to get around the city or to commute to work, although it is fairly uncommon for expats to do so.
The buses are turquoise in colour and most start and end their routes at the main bus depot in the city centre, although other routes that go to the outskirts of Doha are available. Buses are fairly infrequent and only leave every 20 to 30 minutes. They are, however, inexpensive.
Bus fares can also be paid with a Karwa smartcard; the Smartcard Classic is the most popular card for regular commuters. These can be recharged and purchased at bus stations.
Taxis in Doha
People who don’t have cars in Doha often use the city’s turquoise taxis as their primary form of transport. The problem with taxis, however, is that there aren’t enough to accommodate all of the people needing to use them. Taxi drivers also often don’t know their way around the city, which can make it difficult for new expats to find their way around.
Taxis tend to congregate at shopping malls and can be difficult to hail from anywhere else. One good option for expats is to try and get a taxi driver’s business card and call them when needing to get somewhere quickly. Expats who do manage to get a taxi will find that they are mostly clean, metered and well-regulated by the government.
Ride-hailing services such as Uber are also available and offer a safe and convenient means of getting around Doha.
Driving in Doha
Many people believe that the most unsafe place in Doha is on its roads. Driving in Doha can be a harrowing experience, with locals and foreigners alike tending to drive fast and recklessly, which is why many expats choose to hire drivers instead of braving the roads themselves. Traffic is at its worst from 6am, when most people start commuting to work, even though police are often present at roundabouts to help control the morning traffic.
Motor vehicle accidents are the number one cause of fatalities in Qatar and expats should exercise extreme caution when driving on the emirate’s roads. Drivers tend to be aggressive, speed and take risks, so expats should take care to drive defensively. They should also obey traffic laws – the government is trying to combat the problem and heavy fines apply to those caught speeding or jumping a red light.
Many expats choose to drive in Doha, despite the danger, because of the independence it gives them and because petrol is so inexpensive. Expats who take to the roads should be aware of other drivers behaving badly. If someone is unfortunate enough to be involved in a traffic accident in Doha, they should always remain at the scene of the collision or they will risk not receiving any insurance payments.
Expats who want to drive in Qatar will need to apply for an international driving licence or a Qatari driving licence two weeks after arriving in the country. Expats can change their driving licence to a Qatari one at the Madinat Khalifa Traffic Department without having to take a driving test. Qataris drive on the right-hand side of the road.
Cycling in Doha
Cycling in Doha isn’t really an option for expats because of the lack of cycle paths in the city. The reckless drivers make getting around by bicycle dangerous and unwise.
Walking in Doha
The lack of pavements in Doha makes walking around an often difficult and frustrating experience. Expats can, however, walk around the centre of the city quite easily. There are many places of interest close together and walking is the quickest way to travel between them. Another good place to walk is on the promenade along Doha Bay, which is especially popular over weekends.
HEALTHCARE IN DOHA
Expats and locals can easily access a range of high-quality public and private healthcare options in Doha.
Perhaps most significantly, the Hamad General Hospital in Doha’s west side, close to Aspire Park, is a government-sponsored, state-of-the-art facility that provides free and subsidised healthcare to holders of the official Qatari Health Card. Non-holders will have to pay for routine check-ups, although service is free in the case of medical emergencies.
Close to the Hamad General Hospital is the Women’s Hospital which originally opened in 1988 to address the specialised medical needs of women in Qatar. Major improvements to the hospital were completed in 2013.
In the northern part of the city, there are three key government institutions located in close proximity to each other. The northernmost of these is the Rumailah Hospital, which, while not catering for emergencies, specialises in convalescence, rehabilitation and treating the elderly, among other things.
To the south of Rumailah are the National Center for Cancer Care and Research and the Heart Hospital, which specialises in the treatment of adults with heart conditions.
AREAS AND SUBURBS IN DOHA
For expats whose employers won’t provide them with accommodation, choosing which of the areas and suburbs in Doha to live in is a process that demands some practical consideration. Rather than searching for tree-lined lanes and quiet neighbours, choosing an area of the city within close proximity to the main income earner’s place of work should take priority.
Doha, the capital of Qatar and its business hub, claims an assortment of diverse communities clumped together within different areas. Occupation, corporation and length of contract usually dictate where an expat will be most at home, but this isn’t always the case.
Doha is situated between several smaller hubs, such as Al Khor and Ras Laffan to the north, and Mesaieed to the south. These towns offer accommodation to expats who work in the oil and gas industry, or who are employed by the ever-expanding ports in those areas. Expats living in these communities can expect a highway commute of approximately 35 to 50 miles (60 to 80km) to the capital. This means that sometimes even those employed by these sectors prefer to find accommodation closer to the amenities and energy of Doha.
Ultimately, whether in a compound, a free-standing villa or in an apartment, one thing stands out when choosing accommodation in Doha – traffic. Schools and shopping malls are well situated to service all areas, but, in a country where the peak traffic hour can last all day, travel time becomes a major concern when choosing a place to live.
Areas and suburbs of Doha
Below are some of the most popular areas and suburbs in Doha for expats:
Musheireb
Musheireb is a busy downtown area close to the business district and the main market area, Souq Waqif. An older area with many dated apartment buildings and aged flats, it’s characterised by narrow roads and small shops and claims very high foot traffic and peak-hour vehicle traffic at all times.
Abu Hamour
In Abu Hamour, there’s a good mix of compound accommodation and free-standing villas, and easy access to most schools makes this area popular for teachers. The wholesale market, which includes a fish and animal market, is situated near here, and unfortunately, on hot, windy days, a less-than-pleasant smell permeates the surrounding area.
Al Gharafa
Al Gharafa is one of the largest areas in Doha with an eclectic mix of free-standing villas, compounds and apartments. It’s close to most of the major shopping centres and main roads and affords residents good access to Education City. For this reason, it’s become a popular area among expats who work for government agencies, such as the Qatar Foundation or Qatar University.
Duhail
Duhail is a quiet area far from the hustle and bustle of the traffic-filled Doha centre. Its close proximity to major highways and newer free-standing villas makes this a popular area for people working in Ras Laffan.
Pearl-Qatar
Where the trendy live and play, the Pearl-Qatar is a portion of reclaimed land off the Qatar peninsula. The presence of high-end apartment buildings with luxury shops and restaurants makes this a sought-after area for high-income expats and Qataris alike. Access is made easy by a double lane road in and out. Upmarket jetties secure mooring space for large yachts.
West Bay/Al Dafna
West Bay is home to most of the foreign embassies in Doha and a fair amount of diplomatic accommodation. High-income earning families from Qatar can mostly be found in this area, living in the large, ostentatious villas that line its two-lane main roads. West Bay is serviced by the City Centre Mall, very aptly situated in the financial district surrounded by high-rise buildings. High traffic congestion is not prevalent here.
Al Waab/Al Sadd
A well-liked area among expats as it is close to the popular Villagio Mall, Al Waab (also called Al Sadd) predominantly consists of modern family compound accommodation with all of the amenities included. Older sections of the area contain well-maintained free-standing villas. High traffic is sporadic depending on school times and events held at the Aspire Park sports dome. Al Waab is one of the most aesthetically pleasing areas in Doha, and also boasts easy access to most of the major routes.
EDUCATION AND SCHOOLS IN QATAR
Various challenges face expats moving to the Middle Eastern emirate, but navigating the system of education in Qatar is one part of the process that doesn’t have to be too complicated.
Most expats send their children to private international schools and their biggest obstacle is often not the lack of places in Qatari schools, but rather choosing between them.
Expat parents should research potential schools and apply as soon as possible. To help with this, the Supreme Education Council of Qatar (SEC) provides a list of schools on its official website.
Public schools in Qatar
Public schools in Qatar receive government funding and provide free tuition to all eligible residents. Most students are Qatari, although expats with the right connections might be admitted.
The SEC oversees all schools in the emirate and, as a result, state schools in Qatar generally provide a good quality education.
Homeschooling in Qatar
Homeschooling is an option for some expats in Qatar. Doha Home Educators (DHE) has been pivotal in creating an organised network for homeschoolers in Doha, and regularly organises classroom lessons, activities and events.
Given the vague homeschooling regulations for expats in Qatar, DHE advises parents to follow the regulations of their home country.
Private international schools in Qatar
Even though the government puts a lot of effort into ensuring the standards of local schools, most expat children attend private international schools in Qatar. There are many options, with schools following various curricula, including the International Baccalaureate (IB), British, American and Indian systems.
Education in Qatar can be a significant expense, so expats should try and negotiate school fees into their contract or ensure that they budget carefully. Fees can add up quickly for tuition, as well as additional expenses like registration fees, uniforms and excursions, and most fees are expected to be paid upfront at the beginning of the school year.
Enrolment requires long-term planning because waiting lists for spaces in schools can be long. Some expats secure places for their children in a school before signing their employment contract, since some companies reserve spaces in schools.
Expats applying to a school can expect to pay a non-refundable application fee. They will need to fill out an application and provide previous school documents, their child’s health history, and physical exam results. Some schools also require a letter of recommendation, on-site entrance exams and a language test.
After enrolment, expats may also need to give copies of the student’s residence permit, passport copies, photos and immunisation records, as well as copies of their residence permits.
The school year in Qatar runs from September to June, with a typical school day lasting from 7.30am to 2pm. After-school activities extend the school day for children who take part in them.