Moving to Saudi Arabia
The Kingdom of Saudi Arabia is an oil-rich, conservative Middle Eastern country where Islam is the dominating force. Expats seldom move to Saudi Arabia for the lifestyle, the weather, the food or any of the enticements other expat destinations may offer. Rather, Westerners tend to move there for financial reasons and remain sequestered in Western-style compounds, far removed from real Saudi life while earning their tax-free salaries.
Expat life in Saudi Arabia is intensely social as fellow immigrants develop strong, quickly formed bonds. Weekends are often centred on compound get-togethers, trips to the desert and diving excursions. The camaraderie and parties are second to none, but the artificial lifestyle can be difficult to sustain.
Saudi Arabia is governed by Sharia law, and Islam is closely interwoven with daily life. It’s essential that expats become familiar with Islamic customs and laws to avoid transgression and the consequences thereof. Although foreigners are allowed to practice their own religion in private, proselytising is strictly forbidden. There are harsh consequences for those disobeying Islamic laws and flouting local customs.
Expat women, in particular, may struggle to adjust to life in Saudi Arabia, especially if moving there as a “trailing spouse”. Many of the freedoms they enjoyed back home are no longer available. Women are expected to wear an abaya, a long, flowing black robe, when out in public, and are not usually allowed to work if living there as part of their husband’s visa.
Most expats in Saudi Arabia live in Jeddah and Riyadh, both of which have the full range of Western amenities, a good selection of accommodation, and most of the Kingdom’s employers. Some expats may also find themselves drawn to Saudi’s Eastern Province, pulled by lucrative job offers in the hydrocarbon sector.
Foreign children are not able to attend Saudi public schools, but there are numerous international schools catering to the international community. The standard of education at these schools varies. Due to the high demand, space is often limited and parents should consider applying as early as possible to get a place for their child in their school of choice. Fees can also be exorbitant. Expats should factor these costs into their contract negotiations when considering a move to Saudi Arabia.
Working and living in Saudi Arabia is best treated as an adventure and new life experience. The key is to make sure one is going for the right reason – if it’s solely to make money, think again. Expats need to see a move to Saudi as a package of career advancement, cultural experience and financial enrichment.
Population: 33 million
Capital city: Riyadh (also largest city)
Other major cities: Jeddah, Damman, Mecca
Neighbouring countries: Saudi Arabia is bordered by Jordan, Iraq and Kuwait to the north, Qatar, Bahrain, United Arab Emirates to the east, and Oman and Yemen to the south.
Political system: Islamic absolute monarchy
Geography: Saudi Arabia is made up mostly of desert. The population is distributed in the eastern and western coastal towns as well as the interior oases, but much of the country remains empty desert.
Main languages: Arabic is the official language, although English is widely spoken and understood in business.
Major religions: Saudi Arabia is a strict Islamic country governed by Sharia law. Although other religions can be practised in private, proselytising is strictly forbidden.
Money: The official currency is the Saudi riyal (SAR), divided into 100 halala. The country has a well-established banking system and expats are able to open a local bank account in Saudi Arabia.
Tipping: 10 percent
Time: GMT+3
Electricity: 110 volts, 50Hz in main cities, but expats in remote areas may encounter 220 volts, 60Hz.
International dialling code: +966
Internet domain: .sa
Transport and driving: Cars drive on the right side of the road in Saudi Arabia. Most expats get around in their own vehicles or with a personal driver.
Emergency numbers: 999 (police); 997 (ambulance); 998 (fire)
COST OF LIVING IN SAUDI ARABIA
The cost of living in Saudi Arabia is generally lower or on par with other destinations in the Middle East. Riyadh ranked 35th in Mercer’s 2019 Cost of Living Survey. It’s more affordable than the popular expat cities of Dubai and Abu Dhabi. However, it ranked as more expensive than other regional cities like Manama and Doha.
Many expats move to the Kingdom on lucrative relocation packages with allowances for housing, transport, medical insurance and their children’s education.
Expats who have these costs covered by their employers usually find living expenses in Saudi Arabia to be reasonable and enjoy a comfortable lifestyle.
Cost of accommodation in Saudi Arabia
Expat housing in Saudi Arabia is expensive. High demand for property in expat compounds has resulted in high prices. The most popular compounds can have long waiting lists. Living outside the compounds is cheaper. Villas and apartments in Saudi Arabia range in cost depending on size, location and the amenities present.
Cost of education in Saudi Arabia
Schooling is another big expense. Foreign children don’t have access to public schools in Saudi Arabia. They therefore have to attend international schools where tuition can be prohibitively expensive. These tuition fees often also do not include the cost of books, uniforms, or excursion fees. This makes schooling a major expense to consider.
Cost of transport in Saudi Arabia
Saudi Arabia doesn’t have a comprehensive public transport system. This means many expats choose to rather buy or rent a private car. Given its position in the oil sector, petrol is cheap in Saudi Arabia. Expats can often afford to buy a more luxurious car in Saudi Arabia than they could back home. Car insurance is compulsory and is an extra expense expats should keep in mind.
Cost of household goods and food in Saudi Arabia
Electronic goods, groceries and tobacco products are reasonably priced. However, imported food and eating out can be costly.
Entertainment options in Saudi Arabia are limited. There are no bars or nightclubs for Western expats. Money is easily spent on luxury items in the country’s many malls.
Cost of living in Saudi Arabia chart
Note that prices may vary depending on location and service provider. The table below is based on the average prices in Riyadh in October 2019.
Accommodation (monthly) | |
Three-bedroom apartment outside of city centre | SAR 1,900 |
Three-bedroom apartment in city centre | SAR 2,650 |
One-bedroom apartment outside of city centre | SAR 1,005 |
One-bedroom apartment in city centre | SAR 1,500 |
Groceries | |
Milk (1 litre) | SAR 5.50 |
Dozen eggs | SAR 8.50 |
Loaf of white bread | SAR 2.70 |
Rice (1kg) | SAR 7 |
Chicken breasts (1kg) | SAR 19 |
Pack of cigarettes (Marlboro) | SAR 24.50 |
Eating out | |
Big Mac meal or equivalent | SAR 24 |
Cappuccino | SAR 13 |
Three-course meal for two at a mid-range restaurant | SAR 100 |
Utilities | |
Mobile call rate (per minute – mobile to mobile) | SAR 0.50 |
Internet (uncapped ADSL or cable – average per month) | SAR 240 |
Utilities (average per month for standard household) | SAR 320 |
Transport | |
City centre bus fare | SAR 3 |
Taxi (rate per km) | SAR 2 |
Petrol (per litre) | SAR 1.50 |
SAFETY IN SAUDI ARABIA
The country’s strict interpretation of Sharia law and harsh punishments for illegal activity mean that safety in Saudi Arabia is not a major concern. There is normally tight security in and around expat compounds, leaving residents feeling quite protected.
Although terrorism is an ongoing concern in the wider region, there have been no recent attacks in Saudi Arabia, and no incidents that would warrant any concerns for the short-term. Protests, although illegal, have taken place on occasion, but Saudi Arabia has not witnessed the level of protests experienced by other Middle Eastern countries in recent times.
Crime in Saudi Arabia
Saudi Arabia has harsh punishments for criminal activity. Executions by beheading, stoning or firing squad are common for crimes such as murder, rape and armed robbery. Amputations of hands and feet are punishment for robbery. Drunkenness, apostasy, adultery and homosexuality are also subject to harsh punishment, which may seem archaic by Western standards.
Most expats live in Western compounds where security is tight, and burglary and armed robbery are not a concern. Nevertheless, petty theft does occur on the streets of Saudi towns and cities, and opportunistic theft from vehicles also occurs. Expats should always be alert when walking in the street and keep all valuables out of sight.
Expat women in Saudi Arabia face additional challenges. Often seen as potentially promiscuous by local men, thanks to the Western media, sexual assault in Saudi Arabia is common. Women in the Kingdom are often victims of harassment and stalking – it’s not uncommon for a woman to be followed by a local male on foot or in a vehicle. There have also been reports of Saudi citizens harassing foreigners who they believe are not observing conservative standards of conduct.
Road safety in Saudi Arabia
Road conditions vary considerably between cities and rural areas. Larger cities have well-constructed roads, while those in rural areas are often unpaved. Road safety is potentially one of the greatest safety concerns for expats in Saudi Arabia; traffic accidents are a frequent occurrence, aggressive driving and road rage are common, and traffic congestion in Riyadh is an ongoing problem. Expats should drive defensively or, if possible, arrange for a driver who is familiar with the local conditions.
Terrorism in Saudi Arabia
Many governments warn their citizens about the risk of possible terrorist attacks in Saudi Arabia, particularly against Western targets and Saudi oil infrastructure.
Saudi Arabia has a history of terrorist attacks. These have taken the form of kidnappings, bombings of residential compounds and Saudi government offices, and an attack on the US Consulate in Jeddah. The Saudi government takes the threat of terrorism seriously and has carried out a number of arrests of suspected militant Islamists in recent years. Expats should ensure that they stay in secure accommodation, and if in a compound, that adequate security is in place.
Protests in Saudi Arabia
Public demonstrations are illegal in Saudi Arabia. The government has invested heavily in employment and education programmes, which has gone a long way to alleviating dissent among the local population, and protests and demonstrations in the Kingdom are uncommon.
Although there were a few minor public demonstrations staged during the “Arab Spring”, the turnout was minimal. Most of the demonstrations in the Kingdom took place in the Eastern Province, which has the largest concentration of Saudi Arabia’s Shia minority. Protests are most common after Friday prayers, and these should be avoided due to the risk of violence.
BANKING, MONEY AND TAXES IN SAUDI ARABIA
The banking system in Saudi Arabia is relatively robust and has managed to put a progressive foot forward for the past decade. Expats can be fully confident in the banking aspect of their transition to the Kingdom.
Money in Saudi Arabia
The currency in Saudi Arabia is the Saudi Arabian Riyal (SAR), which is divided into 100 halala.
- Notes: 1 SAR, 5 SAR, 10 SAR, 50 SAR, 100 SAR and 500 SAR
- Coins: 1, 10, 25, 50 halala (100 halala equals one riyal)
Banking in Saudi Arabia
Expats can choose between local and international banks. Mobile and internet banking is standard, and facilities are advanced.
Banking hours are usually Sunday to Thursday, from 9am to 5pm.
ATMs and credit cards in Saudi Arabia
Major credit cards are accepted at most shops, hotels and restaurants throughout the country. ATMs are freely available and some permit foreign remittances. Cash is still used for most transactions.
Taxes in Saudi Arabia
Expats won’t be taxed on their salaries as there is no personal income tax in Saudi Arabia. However, they should check whether they are liable for paying taxes in their home country.
Opening a bank account
Expats can open a bank account in Saudi Arabia with a work permit and a letter from their employer. It’s worth doing this to avoid paying international transfer fees.
Due to Islamic law, banks don’t pay interest on balances, don’t lend at high interest rates and don’t let account holders accumulate debt. Non-payment of debt is a criminal offence that can get expats imprisoned – and this doesn’t discharge the debt.
Expats’ salaries will be secure in local banks. However, if they want to earn interest on their income, it’s best to periodically transfer their earnings to an offshore account.
TRANSPORT AND DRIVING IN SAUDI ARABIA
With a limited public-transport system, most people get around in Saudi Arabia with their own vehicles or by taxi. A bus system offers services for both inner- and inter-city transport, and there is a railway line that runs between Riyadh and Damman. However, major improvements are underway with the construction of a metro system in Riyadh and the opening of a new high-speed railway.
Driving in Saudi Arabia
Expats often find they can afford cars they wouldn’t have been able to back home. This is thanks to low import duties and cheap petrol. The Saudi road network is well maintained. However, local drivers are notorious for being aggressive and reckless, so many new arrivals hire a personal driver. Expats driving in Saudi Arabia should do so defensively.
Historically, women (including female expats) have not been allowed to have driver’s licences in Saudi Arabia and were thus unable to drive. However, in 2018 the government implemented legislation to change this, and women are now allowed to drive in Saudi Arabia.
Expats can drive with a foreign or international driver’s licence for up to three months, after which they’re required to apply for a Saudi licence.
Traffic cameras are increasingly being used to deter running red lights and speeding, and fines can be steep. Expats should check the government website frequently to see if they have any, as it’s illegal to leave the country with unpaid fines.
Cars in Saudi Arabia drive on the right-hand side of the road.
Public transport in Saudi Arabia
Public transport in Saudi Arabia consists of buses, trains and taxis, and is slowly being developed.
Buses
Buses operate in Saudi Arabia’s cities and travel to and from neighbouring countries. They’re generally well maintained and air-conditioned, but are mainly used by locals and expats who can’t afford their own vehicles. Women are restricted from travelling on some city buses. Some long-distance buses have screened-off sections for female passengers.
Most expat compounds offer bus or shuttle services to meet the transport needs of women and children.
Trains
There used to only be one railway line in Saudi Arabia. This line runs from Riyadh to Damman, and stops at destinations in-between. Trains are air-conditioned and usually offer a good service.
However, the government of Saudi Arabia has in recent years been investing a lot into the country’s public-transport systems. One of the most important expansion programmes that has been completed is the Haramain High Speed Rail (HHR) project. The HHR is a high-speed train that caters to passengers wishing to travel between Makkah and Madinah. The train also connects these holy cities to King Abdullah Economic City, Jeddah and the Jeddah airport. The train is ultra modern and offers a luxurious travel experience.
Taxis
Taxis are widely available in Saudi cities. This is usually the safest and most efficient mode of transport for those who do not drive themselves.
Most taxis are metered and expats should ensure the meter is working and reset before they start a journey. Taxis can’t be hailed on the street, and have to be called and booked in advance. Some expats save the contact details of a driver they trust and call them when needed.
Fares can be expensive, and drivers are known to substantially increase their fares during peak holiday times such as Ramadan, Hajj and Eid. It’s best to negotiate a price before entering.
Air travel
Due to Saudi Arabia’s size, cross-country travel is easiest by air. There are several airports, including three major international hubs: King Khalid International Airport in Riyadh, King Abdulaziz International Airport in Jeddah and King Fahd International Airport in Dhahran. Numerous domestic and international airlines operate in the country, including Saudia, the national carrier.
HEALTHCARE IN SAUDI ARABIA
Healthcare in Saudi Arabia is of a high standard. Expats will benefit from excellent medical facilities in both the private and public sectors. For the most part, they won’t need to worry about delays or waiting lists.
Emergency services in Saudi Arabia
Ambulances in Saudi Arabia are normally operated and controlled by police and government hospitals. For medical emergencies, expats can call 997.
Hospitals in Saudi Arabia
There are public, private and military hospitals in Saudi Arabia. Most expats use private hospitals and clinics. However, their high standards come with a hefty price tag, so expats should make sure they’re covered by health insurance.
Many of the staff at private hospitals in Saudi Arabia are expats themselves and numerous hospitals are affiliated with well-known foreign facilities – so the language gap shouldn’t be an issue.
Health insurance in Saudi Arabia
Locals and expats working in the public sector have access to state-sponsored healthcare coverage, but it’s compulsory for non-Saudi nationals to have private medical insurance. It’s usually the sponsoring employer’s responsibility to provide their expat employees with medical cover. Expats should try to negotiate this into their contract if it isn’t the case.
Medicines and pharmacies in Saudi Arabia
Medicines are widely available at pharmacies in Saudi Arabia. Expats should however be aware of customs regulations before bringing medication into the country. For example, tranquillisers, anti-depressants and sleeping pills are heavily controlled in the Kingdom.
Most pharmacies are open from 9.30am to 1pm and from 4.30pm to 10.30pm. Hospitals often have a 24-hour pharmacy.
Health hazards in Saudi Arabia
Saudi Arabia is mostly desert and expats usually struggle to adapt to extreme temperatures that can soar above 113°F (45°C). Heatstroke and exhaustion are common, especially during the hottest months from May to September.
Dust storms can also make outdoor activities difficult and can be hazardous to those with respiratory problems.